Rebecca Hearns and Suong Han
Ink Magazine Fashion Forecast
What People Wear to Sweat
Rebecca Hearns
Graphic by Natalie Uhl
As my car steered its way into the parking garage next to the CFG Bank Arena, I saw flocks of variations of Charli XCX and Troye Sivan fans. All were attempting and achieving the same mission: to be dressed as “Brat” as possible.
Most of those plugged into the internet stratosphere last season heard the phrase “brat summer.” The term was coined after Charli XCX released the album “Brat” in June, which gained virality quickly, even becoming a part of U.S. Democratic presidential candidate Kamala Harris’ campaign strategy. Her partner in crime, Troye Sivan, released his album “Something to Give Each Other” in October of 2023, debuting at number one in Australia and number 20 in the U.S. Billboard 200. Both artists follow an electrical pop and layered EDM sound. Together, this duo has over 65.9 million monthly listeners on Spotify and is currently on a tour titled “Sweat.”
The tour began on September 14 in Detroit, Michigan, will end on October 24 in Seattle, Washington and is said to hit 22 cities. Rumors had said the tour would be a large-scale Boiler Room, designed to make you sweat. Although difficult to achieve with such large arenas, Charli and Troye ensured the crowd was moving, giving subtle breaks to catch your breath when Sivan would deliver his slower-paced songs.
What garments did people choose to move their bodies in? Fans in Baltimore and across the U.S. are bringing a sense of DIY to their outfits. Spotted throughout the arena were many self-made “Brat” t-shirts put together with possibly a Michaels green baby tee and fabric paint. I knew one individual at the CFG Bank Arena who followed a trend they had spotted online and recreated the look for themselves. With a mens wife pleaser from Target, spray paint and a thrifted bra, the concert goer wore the bra over the tank and had an accomplice spray paint her chest to achieve that see-through lace bra look. Even if you couldn’t make it to a concert, you’re invited to dress like a “VCU Brat,” available at the on-campus Virginia Book Company store.
It seems the protocol for this tour is a sexy hodgepodge of clothing, all that theoretically appears thrown on and effortless. In reality the lace underwear seen peeking through someone’s pants, the black sunglasses and the shimmer eyeshadow encapsulate a larger history of DIY club attire.
The club’s classic fashion originates from London and New York in the 1980s. After Andy Warhol died, the club scene was considered dead. Yet the youth of the time, moving to NY and taking inspiration from London’s decadent nightlife, were looking for something their lackluster hometowns couldn’t provide: inspiration and space. In the 80s, almost every gallery opening, theater debut and film premier had a nightclub after party. The “Club Kids” were born. A group of underground partiers known for their drug use and avant-garde DIY looks created a space for queer youth. Their fashion was distinct. Continuing in the Ballroom and London tradition of fluid gender expression and experimentation, this group of 20-something-year-olds pushed boundaries through their clothing. They drew from cyberpunk and cybergoth styles that took inspiration from the growing trend in 90s Futurism. Names like Jean Paul Gaultier and RuPaul attended and influenced much of this crowd, generating their own style from it. Lady Gaga has famously influenced many of her fashion statements from this era. The 80s were a time of radical expression amongst the acceptance of the modern world that approached. This trend is repeating itself, with Generation Z being the generation to officially grow up immersed in the digital age, and is the general crowd seen enjoying electrical pop.
What is a club classic look now? We follow the same beat as the world around us, which leans more contemporary. The avid clubgoer sports muted colors, possibly monochromatic, with minimal clothing. It is no longer truly what they’re wearing but the essence that makes someone a club classic or a “Brat.” In other words, the concept is personified into “a pack of cigs, a BIC lighter, and a strappy white top with no bra,” says Charli in an interview on BBC’s Soundtracked podcast. The duo has an intrinsic style that coins the ascetic of sleazy, elevated Y2K. In Let Them See You Sweat by i-D, the magazine interviewed both artists on their virality and soon to launch remix. Leaning into their pop roots, the photoshoot consisted of them posing in front of a hot pink background wearing vintage Christian Dior, ERL, Stella McCartney, JW Anderson and more.
The pieces they’ve been wearing on their North American tour have followed a similar look each show.
Troye is seen in each city wearing varying styles of muscle tanks, jumping between the classic wife-pleaser, mesh and sports jersey. He wears basketball shorts, baggy jeans, utility pants or chaps for bottoms. The music videos in “Something To Give Each Other” have a unique visual identity. Troye and his creative team have tasked themselves with bringing on stage an aesthetic universe with homoerotic fashion at its core. As for Charli, much like her outfit from the music video “Guess” featuring Billie Eilish, she typically wears a simple, form-fitting t-shirt, a layered and tiered mini to midi skirt and a leather jacket. Chris Horan, Charli’s stylist, says what she wears now is “either very boyish and baggy or streamlined and simple; it’s a hoodie and hotpants; amazing jeans and a messed-up T-shirt; it’s effortless, but it’s always from YSL or The Row; that’s the essence.” A personal favorite of Charli’s closet is a fur coat that she drapes across her like an accessory throughout the night. Both artists averaged around five outfit changes that night in Baltimore.
Two divas at “Sweat” in Baltimore, Maryland. @gretaaagee on the left, @laurenbretl on right.
Unlike the artists, concert goers have their one outfit to remember the night with. Will DIY attendees save their concert merchandise for a night out, or will the lime green and spray painted tanks become something they wear to sleep? Dance music becoming mainstream has opened up a new stage and we’re all wondering how this modern world achieves that look while, of course, sweating.
Ink Magazine Fashion Forecast
Sheer is Here!
Suong Han
I loved the resurgence of sheer materials during this year’s Fashion Week. There’s something so whimsical and elegant about sheer fabrics, and it was fascinating to see how different designers put their unique spin on them. While sheer is often associated with sensuality, it was refreshing to see it reinterpreted across a variety of styles, from alternative grunge to more mainstream looks.
The versatility of fabrics like fishnet, georgette silk, organza, chiffon and even crochet stood out on the runway. They added depth and demonstrated the adaptability of both the brands and the designers. Some went all-in with sheer materials, while others used them as accents, but key looks for me came from Khaite, Valentino, Gucci, McQueen, and Ann Demeulemeester. Even Ralph Lauren surprised me — their take on sheer was simple, yet perfectly captured the boho-chic vibe they were aiming for.
Sheer materials for spring/summer are not only fantastic because of how lightweight they are, but because they serve as a powerful layering tool. While they can be a pain to work with, their versatility, elegance, and ability to manipulate opacity enhance the beauty of so many garments. I also love the functionality of and how malleable it is to the human mind. Designers like Holstein (Khaite), Michele (Valentino), and Chet Lo blew me away. Their pieces from the show showed their commitment to their craftsmanship and created breathtaking pieces highlighting texture and silhouette.
Valentino S/S 25 / Alexander McQueen S/S 25
I love seeing how sheer materials are being altered and how upfront it is now in these collections. These timeless materials evoke such delicacy and always dance, embodying fragility yet holding quiet strength and structure.